A Tryst with the Lady of the Lakes in Ranthambhore

[Jayanth Sharma]

Last December, my trip to Ranthambhore National Park was very disappointing. I still remember every minute I spent outside the gates of the national park, hoping it would be opened for tourists sooner or later. Actually, the park had closed abruptly because of some legal issue and I ended up loafing around the fringes of the park. Recently my friend Shiva came back from the UK for good and this was a trip we thought was necessary to celebrate my last few days of bachelorhood. With less than ten days to go for my wedding, I squeezed a quick trip to Ranthambhore National park to convince myself that nothing changes even after marriage


After a boring flight to Delhi on Friday evening, we were supposed to reach Sawai-Madhopur by an over-night train. It was a bad start as the train was delayed for over an hour. Memories of my last year’s disappointment kept taunting me and I kept thinking there’s something wrong between me and Ranthambhore. Things didn’t seem perfect. How ever, the train arrived and in no time I went to deep sleep with a lot of striped-dreams. At six on the Saturday morning, I reached Sawai-Madhopur and I had less than an hour to dump my luggage at the hotel and rush to the safari. Bookings of the Safari happen very well in advance as there is a limitation of 20 Gypsys and 20 Canters that can enter the park. Thanks to Foliage Outdoors of Pune, I had nothing to worry about.


I had told Shiva that Parakeets in this place are like common mynah’s in southern India and I wasn’t proved wrong. Just outside the railway station loads and loads of parakeets flew over our heads greeting us. Soon we were inside the highly regarded Ranthambhore national park and our first safari started. It was a sunny morning and the bird life was surplus. We stopped to photograph the Greater coucal, black drongo and within no time we heard our first alarm call of the trip. It was just a few minutes and hopes of sighting a Tiger were getting stronger. A canter with a lot of tourists was waiting and within no time I sighted a Tigress stalking towards a sambar deer. Soon the tigress vanished in to the bushes and the people in the canter pointed me towards a tree and informed us about a kill already present in the bushes below. The tigress was trying to hunt another deer and she succeeded in that attempt as well. We could see her drag the carcass and disappear in to the bushes again.


The Lady of the Lakes
That evening, we were fortunate to get the route which leads to the Rajbagh Lake and this became my favorite stretch of the park. Within minutes of entering the park, a Nilgai herd was found next to the Padam Talab and it was in amazing evening light. Sighting green bee eaters and Ashy-crowned sparrow lark we moved on. We were the first ones to enter the park that evening and we soon heard alarm calls from sambars and we were sure it’s the Lady of the Lakes around. If Taj Mahal is to India, Machli is to Ranthambhore. Interestingly, the Tiger who was actually named “Machli”, because of a fish like mark on her face died a few years back. But her beautiful daughter who was born in 1997 was referred to as Machli by mistake by a film crew and the name stuck on. Machli has now become an icon and most regulars to Ranthambore can easily relate to the Lady of the lakes.

Just next to the jeep tracks, three cubs aged between 18-20 months were lying inside the bushes and resting. Within no time every gypsy that was touring on that route ended up being there and after nearly 30 minutes of seeing them laze around the bushes, we realized the mother of the cubs was actually sleeping on the road behind all the vehicles. Quickly we did a big ‘boom-a-rang’ to that stretch of the forest and encountered her from the other side. For nearly an hour, the Lady of the Lakes was totally at ease with humans and she was lazing around on the relatively nicer jeep track which didn’t have the ticks and insects that could trouble her inside the bushes. Occasionally she would fight the bothering flies around her body by raising her tail and chasing them away or at times lifting her fore limbs and slapping in mid air to chase the flies away.

Like a beautiful queen she changed positions, made faces, opened her eyes occasionally, and even sat on the ground for some time seeing all the excited tourists around. It is interesting to note that this tigress is supposed to be the most photographed tiger in the world and I was really not surprised hearing that. Machli II as I call her now is sure that humans are no threat to her and can be at her comfortable best even when 50 people are surrounding her. It was nearly 4:30PM and Machli II got up and displayed the typical feline grace by stretching her body and yawning without any etiquette in front of the guests. Careless and disinterested she looked at all of us and then made 3 distinctive calls which were to her young ones sleeping in the bushes nearby.

Aaaaaooow… Aaaaaaooow… Aaaaaooow… She called thrice and started walking. It was a dream come true to see a Tiger walk straight up to me and to photograph the actual “Cat walk”. Within seconds we heard noises from the bushes behind her and one by one all her cubs walked out, looked at us and followed her. It was a magnificent sight to watch the well behaved litter. Commanding utmost respect from her children, the lady of the lakes led them in to the deep forest leaving everyone spell bound and mesmerized. It took at least a few minutes to realize the show was over for the evening and we had to head out of that place. A perfect ending to the first day raised expectations and put me on to a peaceful sleep.


A morning safari on the extremely bumpy “route 1” made us sight pug marks of the sloth bear and tigers. A few humongous sambar stags and a crested serpent eagle on a bald tree were the only sightings and we got back with a stressed back and a lot of dust on our bodies. Dr. Dharmendra Khandal, who works for “Tiger Watch” the NGO responsible for a lot of hard work and protection to the park, capturing the poachers and helping the forest department, was kind enough to kidnap me from my room and he took me to his office. For nearly an hour he spoke to me showing all the scats, bones, evidences of poaching, videos of poachers admitting crime and educated me about the national park boundaries, its issues and various other things.

That evening, we had a lot of reports of the Lady of the lake and her litter having made a kill very close by Rajbagh and we hung around the area for most of the evening. It was a test of patience for nearly three hours and we had only heard repeated alarm calls nearby. It was very clear that the family was feeding on a kill and they wouldn’t venture out till they were thirsty or had enough of their meal. It was 5:53 in the evening and we had less than seven minutes to travel two kilometers to get out of the park. Two quick calls by the sambar and the family of four started walking out of their hideout. For everyone who showed patience and perseverance that evening, the family was on showcase yet again. Though it was a very ordinary day in Ranthambhore’s standards, at least sighting tigers was something which didn’t make the day go a total waste. That was a last minute treat!

Route #5 was what came to me on day three and we were inside very early. We traveled for nearly 30 minutes on a straight track and it was one track which seemed very happening. Hyena, Sloth Bears, Tigers, Leopard everyone had left their pug marks the previous night or early morning and I was really hoping to sight something. After nearly 45 minutes of cautious travel we came across two forest guards who were taking samples of the scat and copying the pugmarks by making moulds of them in plaster-of-paris. I was thrilled to hear from the guard that the tigress and her cubs were just ahead of the road. I didn’t expect it to be so easy but some how it seemed like luck was on our side. We reached the spot to find only pugmarks and nothing else. Disappointed and eager, we kept our eyes and ears wide open and waited for nearly an hour. A peafowl started yelling and a jungle cat emerged out of the bushes. I was thrilled to document my first ever jungle cat sighting.

Meanwhile the remaining vehicles came and joined us and none of us had even the faintest of ideas about the family of the tigers. All of us had to get back to base as it was nearing 9 AM. On a hillock next to the guards house every vehicle stops for a customary view of the park and we got up the hillock and were looking at all directions when suddenly a sambar invited us yet again inside the park by making repeated calls. Two gypsys including mine decided to head back to the area which was at least 4 kilometers away and we rushed to the spot. Disappointment again!! We could see all the other tourists who were still standing on the hillock from a distance, anticipating any signals from us and they too were disappointed. Everyday was not going to be a Sunday we thought and we started heading back. Just then, langur alarm calls down the valley told us something was surely making a move on the gorge beside. We stopped to have a look and we were so lucky even to have sighted a leopard 500 meters away climbing the other side of the hill. On such a big hill to have spotted a tiny leopard was nothing but luck. Monday morning blues are not all that bad – I remarked.

Time had come and it was going to be my last evening safari. Very enthusiastic and geared up for a blast, Shiva and I entered the park for the last time. A monitor lizard was the first to welcome us inside the park and he was on a hunt. The lizard crossed the road and climbed up a tree and moved closer and closer to a parakeet nest. The parakeets were petrified by the intrusion and they were very brave in pecking the lizard and chasing him away. Caring for the young ones is an instinctive animal behavior and most mothers do anything for their off springs. The parakeets were no different. After a while, a chinkara or the Indian gazelle was found sitting in shade on the jeep track and was stand-still for nearly five minutes. He didn’t move a bit and yet another alarm call of the sambars drove us from there towards a hill. We also had learnt that two cubs of the lady of the lakes, who were born two years back were hovering around a kill. A male and a female sub-adult tiger were sitting together in shade and they started moving towards the dried stream. Soon the young lady started walking towards the sambars and the young man was still resting in the cool stream. We lost track of the female and decided to follow her.

Taking advantage of the opportunity, even the male vanished from the spot and soon we were left in between two tigers and were clueless. While we followed another alarm call and were waiting near the lake to sense any movement of the tigers, one of the gypsys came very fast towards us and told us about a young male sitting out in the open in the grass land. I was so surprised at the kindness people in this gypsy showed at me, but I later realized that the guide in my gypsy was the elder brother of the guide in the other gypsy. Brothers had finally done wonders to my last safari and I quickly reached the spot where the young male of the lady of the lakes was resting and watching the distant Nilgai herd. Beautiful evening light and perfect photography opportunity only widened my smiles and I couldn’t believe the way the tiger was posing for me. Taking maximum advantage of the situation and getting some beautiful portraits of the cute young tiger, we started driving out of the park but not before thanking the tourists from England and the guide to have been extra kind to me.

It was such shameless luck that at just one hundred meters before the park’s exit, the lady of the lake and her female cub were again found lazing. It seemed like the tigers were fond of us by then, or we were destined for more. We saw the mother and her beautiful girl walk on the jeep track ahead of us while we followed them for at least a few hundred meters before they vanished in to darkness and bid good bye to one of my magnificent trips to the wilderness. Last year’s disappointing trip was pushed to the edge of my memory and soon I’ll only remember the beautiful Machli II and her lazy elegance. I also observed she had lost one of her canines and it was surprising the way she still manages to keep her litter well fed. Being the daughter of the legendary Machli, this 10 year old tigress now rules the lakes of Ranthambhore national park and I hope she thrives for a few more years at least.

Guards and naturalists of the park claim that many more tigresses have given birth to a few cubs this year and the sightings this summer would be fabulous to say the least. Long live the lady of the lakes and the beautiful Ranthambhore. By the way, I also met Fateh Singh Rathore the iron man of Ranthambhore and exchanged a few words with him before flying back to Bangalore and switching on to a bride groom’s mode from being a jungle boy. After my marriage next week, I am heading towards one of the richest wildlife zones on this planet and I am very eager to experience it and share them with you all.



Aaaaaaoooow! Have fun this Dassera and Deepavali. If you are heading towards any forest during that time for holidays, please be kind not to fire crackers near the forests for sure. Choose between the Forest and the Crackers.


Sighting list of Birds
Jungle Babbler - Turdoides striata
Rose-ringed Parakeet - Psittacula krameri
Alexandrine Parakeet - Psittacula eupatria
Rufous Treepie - Dendrocitta vagabunda
Black Drongo - Dicrurus macrocercus
White-bellied Drongo - Dicrurus caerulescens
Indian Peafowl - Pavo cristatus
Great Egret - Ardea alba
Little Cormorant - Phalacrocorax niger
Great Cormorant - Phalacrocorax carbo
Snake bird or the Darter - Anhinga anhinga
Laughing Dove - Streptopelia senegalensis
Spotted Dove - Streptopelia chinensis
Rock Pigeon - Columba livia
White-browed Wagtail - Motacilla madaraspatensis
Red-vented Bulbul - Pycnonotus cafer
River Tern - Sterna aurantia
Brown Fish Owl - Bubo zeylonensis or Ketupa zeylonensis
Spotted Owlet - Athene brama
Grey Heron - Ardea cinerea
Painted Partridge - Francolinus pictus
Woolly-necked Stork - Ciconia episcopus
Asian Paradise-flycatcher - Terpsiphone paradisi
Crested Serpant Eagle - Spilornis cheela
Peregrine Falcon - Falco peregrinus
Eurasian Hobby - Falco subbuteo
White-eyed Buzzard - Butastur teesa
Sandgrouse
Great Tit - Parus major
Scarlet Minivet - Pericrocotus flammeus
White-browed Fantail - Rhipidura aureola
White-throated Kingfisher - Halcyon smyrnensis
Small Blue Kingfisher -Alcedo coerulescens
Golden Oriole - Oriolus oriolus
Green Bee Eater - Merops orientalis
Yellow-footed Green Pigeon - Treron phoenicoptera
Ashy-crowned Sparrow-lark - Eremopterix grisea
Indian Roller - Coracias benghalensis
Indian Robin - Saxicoloides fulicata
Oriental Magpie Robin - Copsychus saularis
Pied Bushchat - Saxicola caprata
Asian Koel - Eudynamys scolopacea (Pair)
Cuckoo
Painted Spurfowl - Galloperdix lunulata
White-backed Vulture - Gyps africanus
Red-headed Vulture - Sarcogyps calvus
Indian Pond Heron - Ardeola grayii
Greater Coucal or the Crow Pheasant - Centropus sinensis
Hoopoe - Upupa epops
Jungle Myna - Acridotheres fuscus
Red-wattled Lapwing - Vanellus indicus
Purple Sunbird - Cinnyris asiaticus
Grey Partridge/Francolin - Francolinus pondicerianus

Mammals
Tigers - Panthera tigris, 7 different individuals
Golden Jackal Pair - Canis aureus
Leopard - Panthera pardus
Jungle Cat - Felis chaus
Spotted Deer - Axis Axis
Sambar - Cervus unicolor
Chinkara or Indian Gazelle - Gazella gazella bennetti
Wild boar - Sus scrofa
Ruddy Mongoose - Herpestes smithii
Nilghai/Blue Bull ( Male & Female )

Reptiles
Mugger Crocodile - Crocodylus palustris
Monitor Lizard - Varanus bengalensis
_________________
Cheers,
Jayanth Sharma
jay@wildlifetimes.com

[Pramod Viswanath]

Superb write up Jayanth. Loved every word of this post. Fantastic images - no need of mentioning this. The moments you have captured are really hair raising. Wish to make a trip with you to this place once

All the best for your "Hot spot" trip! Am sure you'll come back with mind blowing images.

[Vijay Rao]

It was a good read and the photos were magnificent ... Thanks for showing us the king of the jungle .... How I wish I didn't have this wild wish of sighting a tiger first in the south indian jungles and then move on to the easier north ....

[Santhosh]

Hi Jayanth,

Amazing photos and information on wild life.. Keep on posting after marriage

All the best of future.


Regards,
Santhosh V

[sanideos]

Vey nice photographs.
Just curious. Camera and lens specs.

[mridul]

Jayanth,

As I sit back and read your journal post in this otherwise quotidian Friday afternoon, I have almost been transported there through my thoughts. The friday blues grip me even more firmly and ask me to get rid of this place;)

Fantastic diary and I wish that I am able to do this soon:) Let's see what Kabini has to offer to me when I travel this weekend.

Cheers!
Mridul Batra

[Jagadish]

Hi Jayanth,

Good photos and writeup, I am getting excited looking at soo many tiger pictures, Feel like to make a trip to Ranthambhore. Hope u get time to do similar trips after ur wedding.

Keep Going
Jagadish

[Bharat]

Hey Jay,

As usual, neat pictures and detailed writeup, enjoyed every part of it.

All the Best.
Bharat

[Guest]

Superb shots! I hope I will have the same luck during my visit. I'm all excited now and can't wait!

-Chocolat

[vishvajitj]

Hi Jayanth,
Very nice report and superb photographs.. i think will see them again on sanctuary cover page...

Have a nice time in Dasara and Diwali..

Vishvajit

[vandan]

Hey Jayanth,
Brilliant write up!
This is so impressive and amazing captures! I just kept gazing at the pictures all day long!
Well looking at this post, am just missing being in India and specially Ranthambore!
_________________
Vandan (1d'n)

[Guest]

Happy dasara, nice shots Jayanth

[drganesh]

Greetings of the Season
Thanks for sharing your beautiful and sharp images. Your prose is as usual in your indimitable style. Sometimes, I wonder whether the change in behaviour(acceptance of proximity) of these wild cats to humans prove to be their downfall in the hand of poachers but to the delight to us shutterbugs.
Hope the tigresses in your life are only the four legged kind

[Guest]

A great read jayanth!
Wish you the best for the D-day...can't wait for your pics from the Mara!
Siddhartha

[sainath vellal]

awesome trip report and a beautiful collection of photos Jayanth Heard you and shiva had much enjoyment clicking

[tygerman1]

Thanks for the link Jay, great viewings-quite unlike our sedate forest down here. Hope Shruti enjoys the outings as much as you. Looking forward to seeing you on Wednesday. Q.

[Srikanth]

Hi Jayanth,
Its great, i think u guys had good sighting, the snaps only will explain how much u would have enjoyed seeing the tiger through your lens, its amazing pics.

"Congrates" i learnt from my wife bhavya that you are getting into a new world on 24th oct 07, thats even more great news.

cheers
Srikanth.G.P
_________________
i am into wildlife consevation from last 10yrs, creating awareness about wildlife with a team of 10 self motivated & dedicated

[Bharat]

Hey, if you could add a picture of Machli II and her cubs, to the report it would be great........

Regards
Bharat

[Guest]

Hi,
Its very nice. Can u tell me is it a good time to visit thr now. And what is the probability of sighting a tiger?which is the best hotel or safari thr?. By Best i mean not the accomadation or the facilities . I mean who can take us through more sightings of tiger.


Thanx in advance.

[manjunath]

superb story and photographs i have just finished my trip to ranathambore and back with jayanth hope to see itb one day
regards
manju

[Jayanth Sharma]

[Guest]

Hi Jayanth,

Nice writeup and pics.
WISH U A VERY HAPPY MARRIED LIFE.

Cheers
Jayaram Jahgirdar

[jayanth]

nice trip, jayanth, ranthambore comes alive in ur descriptions not only ur pictures are a class apart, ur narration makes us live through ur experiences, hope ur life partner shares the same passion as urs for wildlife n wish u a happy married life,

[Guest]

Thanks, Jayanth.

I was transported to that world - and back (Sigh!). Keep up the good work.

Happy Married Life.

[Guest]

Hey Jayanth, nice read and always amazing photos. Hope you get to do this after marriage and with the company of your better half

Madhu